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The Cake Academy's Simnel cake, my favorite, has again failed to turn up on local grocery store shelves. Why such lovely foods might be expected to appear before the end of Lent I do not know but there are probably more pancake-gobblers than subsequent abstainers.

This year I tried the Simnel cake from Booths, made in Cumbria, which was pleasant enough but the fruit cake mix tasted fairly generic to me. I also tried Greencore's which at least tastes strongly of citrus but still seems to me to fall short.

Other favorite foods sometimes disappear: for example, it is some time since I saw Sharwood's lamb biryani which used to make for a pleasant and cheap ready meal.

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Mark T. B. Carroll

January 2026

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